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On Saturday July 29th, I found myself standing on the fringe of a road junction outside Las Vegas, New Mexico. Despite an early meeting time, the temps were rising and you could tell the day was going to be a cooker. To my back stood a severely weathered grave yard and to my front a seemingly endless mesa covered in juniper and piñon. From what I could gather, I was likely standing in one of the biggest social scenes this particular part of the country had ever seen. Our group included members of the New Mexico Wildlife Federation, Backcountry Hunters and Anglers, New Mexico Game and Fish, and the Bureau of Land Management. It also included commissioners of San Miguel County, the New Mexico Bowhunters Association, Senators Martin Heinrich and Tom Udall, and a few cowboys to wrangle horses for the main event. I watched as three shiny suburbans and a few state police cars pulled up, escorting in the Secretary of the Interior, Ryan Zinke.
Secretary Zinke came to this corner of New Mexico to fulfill a promise to Senator Heinrich and the people of New Mexico. That promise included taking a tour of the Sabinoso Wilderness, some 16,000 acres of prime game habitat, to determine if an addition to the Wilderness would be possible. Never heard of the Sabinoso? Truthfully, neither had I until I received a phone call a week prior to this meeting. Don't feel bad; there is a good reason you are unaware. You cannot legally access the Sabinoso Wilderness, as the entire area has been landlocked by private ground. By virtue of being a Wilderness area, the Sabinoso must be managed by the Department of the Interior as a resource for the "use and enjoyment of the American people”, yet you and I are barred from entry. However, there is a silver lining: the Wilderness Land Trust, an organization that acquires and transfers private land to public ownership, currently holds 4,000 acres of land called the Rimrock Rose Ranch that could provide legal access to the Sabinoso. The Trust will donate this land to the people of the United States; all that is required is the signature of Secretary Zinke on the final agreement.
Why does this matter from a hunting perspective? Why the hell was I there? Turkey, elk, mule deer, black bear, and Barbary sheep can be found in the Sabinoso Wilderness. It is a place that can push you to your limits and will make the great hunting gear you own necessary. The canyons are prime nesting areas for raptors like the peregrine falcon and the intermittent stream is home to catfish, panfish and the largest concentration of amphibians in Northern New Mexico. Along these streams, you will find sandy deposits perfect for pitching a tent.
My brief time in the Sabinoso left me with the all too familiar pangs of opportunity lost and fear of missing out. How do I get back to properly explore? How do I apply for tags? The truth is, those thoughts are fanciful. They are just day dreams unless we can get access, and access now lays in the hands of Secretary Zinke.
Please use one or both of the links below to urge Secretary Zinke to do his job and manage the Sabinoso Wilderness for the "use and enjoyment of the American people”.
- Backcountry Hunters and Anglers
- New Mexico Wildlife Federation
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Ryan Callaghan is a BHA life member and the Director of Conservation and Public Relations at FLHQ.
Every once in a while, on a backcountry ski, hike or hunt I had seen them amongst the rocks high above. Way up there, always looking down on m as I struggled higher to experience their world, if only for a matter of hours. No other game animal in the Americas rivals their climbing ability and toughness. Moreover, exotic as these creatures are, they inhabit my home mountain ranges. Indeed, with a powerful telescope and a great sum of patience one might spot one from the office window. And so for me mountain goats came to represent all that is wild, high and hardy in central Idaho. I became fascinated with their lofty lifestyle. I read all I could about them and glassed the cliffs with anticipation on trips through the mountains. And as I am more than anything else a hunter, this esteem evolved into a desire to spend a season watching, studying and experiencing these amazing creatures. Ultimately, killing and consuming this symbol of the rugged peaks seemed like my ultimate sacrament. Despite the fact that my odds of drawing a tag were poor, pursuing a Rocky Mountain Goat became my first hunting priority. So when I opened the Idaho Fish and Game envelope in May, puzzlement quickly turned to astonishment. Inside was a glossy tag; good for the only mountain goat I would ever take in the state. Damned if I hadn’t actually drawn my dream hunt right in my own proverbial backyard. My once in a lifetime opportunity had arrived without delay. Yet it was also a commitment. The pressure to fill a lifetime tag and to do so in the right manner with the right animal was immediate and undeniable. Ungrateful as this sentiment may sound, when you only get one you sure as hell don’t want to mess it up. Logistics and decisions quickly filled my head and the fretting began almost immediately. I imagine a bride feels similarly about her wedding day
Never expecting to actually draw a goat tag, I had burned most of my vacation time on a DIY hunt in New Zealand. Labor day weekend was the opener and this well timed holiday would likely afford me my longest single chunk of goat hunting. We headed for an area I had scouted extensively over the summer. I had seen loads of goats in these frainages over the course of the summer. The only troubling thing was that few if any of the goats I had seen had appeared to be mature billies.
Oreamnos americanus is notoriously difficult to sex, particularly at a distance. Indeed, this is the reason it is not strictly illegal to kill a nanny in most states and provinces. Because of their particular habitat requirements, mountain goats naturally occurs in isolated, small populations. This characteristic means that even modest harvest of reproductive nannies call have negative effects on a goat herd. Despite this dynamic, managers are simply not confident that hunters will be able to reliably sex the animal in the field despite good intentions. Both billys and nannys have thick white coats and thin black horns. The differences between the two are subtle: Billys have a slightly thicker, more evenly curved horn. They also sport in-between-the-legs equipment that give you a pretty decent idea but are impossible to discern at great distance. Most definitively, nannie squat to urinate while males stay standing, leaning forward like a horse. As a result they sometime have stains on the lower part of their rear legs. Finally, Billies also tend to spend more time alone in the summer. Though far from conclusive, this characteristic is often all you have to go on when glassing large-bladdered goats from far across a drainage.
However, I brushed the apparent scarcity of mature billies aside and we set out with high hopes, bows in hand. Over the long weekend, my buddy, Josh and I saw several nanny herds, stalked in on a small group of immature goats and chased elk in our spare time. The Rocky Mountain weather was impressively bipolar, going from sun, to rain to inches of snow over the course of our four days in hills. It was a memorable trip, but one distinctly lacking in mature billies. And with my biggest single chunk of time in the woods behind me, I predictably began to worry. Though the season ran until November 11th much of the high country could be snowed in before then; the goats made all but invisible in the snow. Additionally, I had three new hunters to guide through October’s deer season. All told only a handful of weekends remained to notch a tag. Was I overacting to my first unsuccessful outing? Without doubt, but a goat tag will do that to you. I fully realize this sentiment is pathetic. This was quite literally the hunt of a lifetime and yet here I was, fretting away. Try as I might to focus on the experience I couldn’t fully shake off the weight of the tag.
In Meditations on Hunting, Jose Ortega y Gasset famously wrote, “One does not hunt in order to kill; on the contrary, one kills in order to have hunted.” Each year fall, I hunt elk, deer and antelope and the vast majority of these hunts end without blood. Don’t get me wrong, I am not out there bird watching. The goal is to harvest and animal. But if I don’t notch a tag I rarely feel I have wasted my time. Hearing a bull bugle from forty yards, watching two moose spar or catching the fleeting glimpse of a sow and her cubs are all part of the success of a hunt. Indeed, on my best days, I see hunting as a lens with which experience the natural world in a way more intimate than any other I know; one which also occasionally yields a full freezer, sometime puts horns on the wall and always provides stories for the campfire. Viewed this way hunting notably lacks a mandate of success. As the cliché goes, that’s why they call it hunting not killing. But my obsession for mountain goats and the very real possibility that this was the only such tag I would ever hold change this notion. This pursuit was more of a kill mission. As a result, it often felt more a task than an opportunity. I wasn’t just out hunting in the way I chase elk, antelope and deer each fall. This hunt was different. I was out to fill the tag of a lifetime. And so I decided it was time to get aggressive. The bow went into its hard case and the .308 came out of the closet. The following weekend I planned to pack into a wilderness area I had scouted earlier in the summer. I had seen several lone goats there in July and resolved that we would go up there and kill one. Inauspiciously, we did not make the trailhead until about 6:30 in the evening and ended up setting camp at dark barely two miles back. But the morning dawned clear and beautiful and we set about finding goats. My partner, Cal, and I decided to split up; he would head up to the top of the wall of the drainage to gain a view to its the rocky head, a place we had been told held critters. Meanwhile, I would retrace my steps and hike for the high pass where I had seen the three lone goats during the summer.
Not long into my climb into the high basin under the pass, I spotted my first white blob. It was alone, way the hell up there, casually pawing about the cliffs that ringed the basin. But as soon as I had the spotter focused on the goat, it squatted unmistakably. That wasn’t the end of the world. At about 11,000 feet and far from anything to which the word “reasonable” could be applied. And so I shouldered my pack and continued my climb. Two thousand feet and a couple layers lighter, I reached the top of the pass. Five minutes after that, I saw goats. They we’re below me, a bit down into the basin on the far side. A nanny and kids picked their way through a wide talus field five hundred yards away. A couple hundred yards downhill from them a lone goat stood stock still, not appearing to do much of anything. As the pair moved off across the boulders and ultimately up and out of the drainage, the other goat stayed in place and my interest grew. The horns appeared large and swept back evenly and its rear legs appeared to have a yellow tinge. It didn’t seem concerned with the disappearance of the others and eventually it dropped out of site in a fold in the talus field. Well, here I was. Though I still wanted a closer examination, things were looking good. I quickly emptied my pack of my overnight gear, rocked my rain slicker over the gear pile and moved down toward where I had last seen the goat. About three hundred yards above its last position, I dropped my pack and pulled off my scope covers. I inched forward and the gully was revealed foot by foot. But something was wrong. The goat was not where it was supposed to be. I crept farther forward. Now I could see the bottom of the dip. No goat. I looked far, up the cliffs and shoots above the boulder field and down below where the whitebarks and fir began. No goat. I began to move more quickly and impatiently. How in the hell had this big white animal given me the slip in an open, treeless boulder field? I stood up tall and began to walk. And then, as it always is, my quarry was right there, looking directly at me.
The goat was bedded beneath a bus-sized boulder about 120 yards to my left. It had hidden him from me until I had dropped this far down and then I had walked right out in front of it, far and clear from cover of any sort. I froze and looked on, waiting to see what would come of this intruder. Now what would I do? Though it was close it lay away from me and did not present a clear shot. Should I wait it out and hope the goat lost interest. Then I could try and get the rifle off my shoulder, put the crosshairs on the goat and wait for it to shift or stand up. Or I could just keep walking and try and get the gentle rise in front of me between us. I estimated that I had already walked ten or twenty yards in its view before I spotted the goat. Maybe I could get away with another thirty. If I could get to cover I might also have more time to confirm the goat was a billy. I went for it, striding casually forward and trying for the world to seem like nothing unusual had happened. This tactic will occasionally work with game animals. It very much did not work on this particular critter. The goat sprung to its feet and took off up the boulder field. I dropped to my knees and balancing on my extended bipod I floated the reticle on the fleeing animal. It was not stopping, quickly putting distance between itself and the strange bipedal threat across the open boulder field. As a rule, I do not shoot at unwounded, running animals. Moreover, I had not even had the change to examine the critter up close and was still far from 100% confident it was even a billy. And so I watched the goat scamper off towards the cliffs. With it went my hope for the day and perhaps the hunt.
But when it hit the cliffs the goat slowed and looked over its shoulder. It appeared to grow confident in the 500 odd yards it had put between us. It picked slowly along the base of the cliffs, seemingly without much concern. Emboldened by its body language, I slunk back to my pack and found a position under an isolated stand of fir to hunker down and watch. Ultimately, the goat pawed about, turned a circle, and lay down. I kept the spotter trained on the white critter hoping it would get up, relieve itself and settle the question without doubt. Though I felt reasonably confident billy, my mind kept running the clip of myself approaching the downed goat only to find utters. Nanny harvest is perhaps the single most detrimental factor in goat population dynamics and I would rather eat my tag then be that guy. On top of this possibility, a lot of open boulder field lay between it and my effective range. And the wind blew up from the drainage below straight up to the goats. With the cliffs at his back this was about the worst possible orientation for approaching him. As I watched a smaller, immature goat clambered down from the rock chutes above and joined the suspected billy at the base of the cliffs. The minutes turned to hours. I munched a pro bar and mulled the possibilities.
Suddenly, Cal came across on the radio. He had clambered all the way up the ridge that separated the valley we had started from my drainage. He waved down to me, a mile distant and 1500 feet up; a ludicrously small figure perched precariously atop a massive wall of rock. With instruction he was just able to make out the goat. “Yup, looks like a billy to me. Go get him.” Its funny how even casual encouragement can break up indecision. I got serious about the stalk. Though subtle, there was a slight dip between my position and the goat. If I worked my way all down to tree line I might be able to pick up the beginning of the dip and make my way to within a couple hundred yards of the billy. Sure, the wind was completely wrong but this goat had already spooked and there simply was not a path to him perpendicular to the breeze. Go time. Though I tried to keep cover between myself and the goat, I moved decisively. As I made it to the highest trees the rising boulder field hid him from view. Now, it was all faith and memory. I turned towards cliffs and began climbing the seam in the boulders. The going was loud and slow. It seemed impossible not to step on loose rock every tenth step. Each footfall was a decision and several times I was forced to double back and find a new path, my trajectory blocked by loose slate that simply could not be crossed silently. I winced with each rocky creak and was sure the goat was long gone up in the crags. And all the while the wind puffed consistently on my back. I didn’t have a great feeling about this stalk. The gully widened about one hundred yards above before the rise. Above that the goat or more likely its empty bed would come into view. I dropped my pack, removed my scope cover and extended my bipod. This last distance I moved as slowly as I could. Step after step, I saw further down the cliffs. And then he was there, right where he should have been. He was already looking my way as if he had been waiting for me all along. But he remained bedded. I flipped up my rangefinder: 176 yards. Slowly, I positioned the bipod feet in the rocks, expecting him to bolt with each of my movements. But he did not. Then came that brief moment of disconnect that seems always to arise at this point in a hunt; it was actually going to happen. I settled the reticle on his shoulders but it bounced. I closed my eyes. Took some deep breaths. Then the dot was tucked just behind his shoulder and the .308 cracked.
“I think he’s dead.” “Yep. You got him.” Callaghan crackled over the radio. The goat had rolled a hundred yards and lay still in the talus. Even so, I put another round in the chamber and for fifteen seconds or so I watched the goat nervously through the scope of the .308. The white mass, now stained red, lay motionless in the rocks. Only then did it truly dawn on me that it was over; the weight lifted, the job done. Slowly, I stood up and after another long glance at the goat, I turned back to grab my pack and notch my tag.
Ford Van Fossan is the consumer sales and content manager at FLHQ. He will never again hunt a goat in Idaho which means its time to start putting in for other states and volunteering with the Rocky Mountain Goat Alliance to get his fix. You can read about the kit he used on these hunts on this months staff picks.